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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.